Watch out India. . . Here comes Mary!

My arrival in New Delhi was full of warmth --both the weather and the people. Dhirendra Sharma, a physics teacher at Bal Baharti Public Schools (BBPS) who has designated himself as my Unofficial Mentor (He was accepted into the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program for the fall of 2010, but very unfortunately a match in the US was not found. The same place I was in last year. I know how profoundly disappointing that is!)
A driver took both Dhirendra and I to 14 Anandvan, Paschim Vihar, my home for the next five and a half months. Barely had the door been opened and I was greeted with a "proper Indian" welcome: red powder on my forehead and a very sweet, round ball that was scrumptious. I met Madhu, Neena, and Menaka who all live in the same society (the appartment complex of Marathi Indians). I was shown how to use the airconditioner, the television, and the stove.
The next morning Madhu stopped by on her way to work to see how I was doing, my neighbor Shweeta came over to meet me and invite me to go out on Sunday to buy Indian clothes, and then I had lunch at Neena's. Kunda, Rashmi's sister had a mobile phone and international calling card delivered to me, and that night Madhu walked to the market, Reliance, with me so I knew how to get there. At the door security takes bags and checks receipts before leaving.
Sunday the 15th of August was Independence Day. The society had a celebration in the morning with the National Anthem, dances, and snacks. I met more people in the society, all very welcoming.
Shweta and I took a pedal rickshaw to the TDI shopping complex: air conditioned and security checks before entering. She picked out three outfits for me steering me away from my usual choice of blue and blue and blue. I bought kurdas and churidars (leggings) and one salwar kameez with a scarf. We browsed a book store and another shop before lunching at Pizza Hut which had extremely attentive service and a different menu than the US ones. I had a salad and Shweta had garlic bread for appetizers before sharing a pizza. Sunday afternoon I took a taxi to the Park Hotel for my USIEF (United States India Educational Foundation, the Indian counterpart of Fulbright) two-day training. The driver took me to the wrong hotel! Thankfully, the City Hotel, which is where I was delivered, called the Park to confirm my reservation as well as arranging a taxi to take me to the correct hotel!

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Transportation in Delhi

Roads in Delhi are democratic: they are for everyone, anything with wheels, and all animals. This is what I have seen on major roads: trucks, buses, three-wheeled trucks and auto rickshaws, bicycles, bicycle-pulled carts, pedal rickshaws; cow and horse-drawn wagons, people riding elephants and walking with camels, cattle grazing in the median, dogs and pigs, pedestrians and cyclist going both with and and against traffic, cars doing u turns in the middle of traffic, drivers going across lanes to get a parking spot or drop off a passenger, and cars going backwards towards traffic. Jay walking thrives. Somehow, everything flows, and everyone gets to his or her destination safely.

City buses run frequently during the day. Passengers give their fare to an employee, not the driver, who takes the money, gives change, and gives the rider a ticket. Transfers are not available. I have found these bus employees to be very nice and helpful. I always ask for my stop. One time the employee got up and walked through the bus to tell me the next stop was mine. Some men have offered their seat to me when the bus is crowded. I have been the only white person riding the bus. The overwhelming majority of the passengers probably do not own cars. The bus is the least expensive transportation. I pay anywhere from five to twenty-five rupees ( ten to fifty cents) to go around Delhi. Some buses are packed with people, some are air conditioned and cost more for that luxury. A colleague told me that the bus stressed him out so much when he was a college student that he would arrive to school exhausted. His ride was two hours one way, and his bus was always jammed full of passengers.

The metro is clean, efficient and can be very crowded. The lines are not all complete yet, so many places are not accessible by metro. Security checks all bags and people before they can enter the metro area. The price varies according to where one is going, but the metro is not expensive, around twenty to thirty-five cents depending on the length of the journey; passes are available for frequent use. I do not like trips in the metro involving changing lines or trips that go into notoriously crowded areas. My first ride found me at Kashmere Gate where people were so tightly packed that the crowd moved and pushed me along. Children were crying because everyone was so squeezed in. I feared for injuries due to the metro doors closing on people. Thankfully, I got in with enough room to be away from the doors, and I got out, fighting against tightly packed people, to my destination. Since that first metro ride, I have learned the best times to go and better yet, I learned that the first car is a "Ladies Car." No men are supposed to be one it. The rationale is that we ladies deserve luxury, less hassle, and our own space. I like the Ladies Car!

Rickshaws are inexpensive, but most pedalers do not speak English. These are good for short distances. I still think of the protagonist in City of Joy every time I see a rickshaw. I have mixed feelings about using them.

Auto rickshaws are less expensive than taxis and very bumpy. Again , language for me is a problem. Some taxis are fixed price. I have been told settling on a price before is a good idea.

One thousand cars a day are sold in Delhi. I do not know if that means they are used in Delhi also. The roads are very busy, and traveling takes a lot of time. From where I live to Connaught Place. Khan Market, or other areas in the "center" of Delhi takes at least an hour. Some employees and college students travel up to two hours one way to get to their destinations.

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